Tuesday, November 28, 2017

The Romance of Picking Grapes By The Night



A few of us had the pleasure of being introduced to Bertrand Trepo of the champagne house Trepo Leriguier during summer this year. He was visiting Napa and was generous enough to conduct a champagne tasting for a few of us at our Escondido Village grad apartment. In spite of him being from the old-world wine region, he came across as an eager student of new wine making ideas and was in Napa to do tasting and learn. During the tasting of his champagnes, he mentioned in passing that he picked his grapes in the middle of the night. At that juncture, I did not think much of it.

In class today, however, Peter Mondavi Jr., mentioned in a comment that they themselves picked their Sauvignon Blanc grapes in the night to maintain optimal fruit freshness. According to stories, the technique originated in Burgundy at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and continued to spread to Bordeaux region.

This reminded me of the original conversation we had with Bertrand and I went to look a little deeper. It turns out that he has taken this night grape picking technique and turned it into a marketing tool by which he invites plenty of friends, family and media to join him in the activity of night grape picking. The champagne region usually does not pick their grapes at night as the climate is cool enough during harvest season. Bertrand, however, took the night picking and made it a tradition associated with his brand. He is apparently the first champagne house to pick grapes at night. It’s a bit of a tradition and his customers are enticed to enjoy returning back to the soil by handpicking the grapes. It gives his consumers a chance to be part of the process of wine making. He furthers his brand value by associating it with a tradition and a makes a big event out of it. It celebrates the harvest season and I am pretty sure generates revenues and attaches an experience to his champagnes (beyond that of tradition tasting rooms).






Superstitions of Vintners

SUPERSTITIONS OF VINTNERS
Superstition rituals are powerful routines that give us solace in stressful times and allow us to have the positive thought and faith that otherwise in a stressful situation is hard to come by. Since time immemorial, people have had to deal with the randomness of nature and have had the fear of the unknown. since the wine Industry is so held captive and ransom to the tantrums of the weather and its effects, its but Natural that the vintners, want to connect and repeat the psychologically comfortable circumstances manifested as rituals to remain positive. Some of the superstitions that have been practiced and acknowledged by the vintners are as follows: -
Hair:
The superstition in this winery in Oregon is that there is no shaving once the first fruit is picked until the last cluster runs through the sorting line. The pickers are allowed to shave their neck, because that’s just gross. The first shave is typically something weird or different. This works out good since it is usually around Halloween and one can get away with looking like an idiot. It is believed that failure to follow these rules would result in poor fermentations, and thus most people follow this ritual. Once harvest starts lot of winemakers in the state of Washington don't shave again until their last grapes are in (especially when harvest is off to a great start). One of the winemakers grew so tired of the routine to grow and cut the Hair that he instead came up with the idea of dyeing his hair purple or red just before harvest.  However, Anne Vawter of the Red Mare wines always chops her hair right before harvest. She proudly says-Out with the old and in with the new.
Clothing:
Rachel Stinson Vrooman says that her biggest harvest superstition is a little grungy in that the harvest sweatshirt/vest must not be washed from the beginning of harvest until the last press run. Other than that, water hoses must be left perfectly coiled at the end of the day, lugs stacked in stacks of 20, and no checking of grape ripeness the day after a rain. Neeta Mittal of LXV Wine, Paso Robles wears her Cal Berkeley Sweatshirt on the first pick of every harvest. Paul Steinauer of Flora Springs, St. Helena wears shorts from the first day of harvest until the last tank of red is pressed out. Even though the last pressing might continue till last November and it gets cold.
 Toasting:
MJ Tsay at Realm Cellars, St. Helena says that since she is a female winemaker, she cannot participate in the harvest ritual of shaving, and thus she has taken the elegant route of toasting the first grapes received, with a bottle of Champagne. She always gathers her entire team (sales/marketing included) at the ungodly hour of 5 or 6 a.m. to gather around their first bin of grapes and a taste of Champagn- remembering to always give a pour for Bacchus over the grapes.
Paul Steinauer of Flora Springs, St. Helena follows the ritual to saber a bottle of bubbly and christen the grapes to celebrate the vintage and then the team toasts to a great harvest season. 
Odd Stuff:
Matt Crafton in Chateau Montelena, Napa Valley, ever since his first harvest, has always carried a plain-white envelope with the word ‘push’ written on it to keep him motivated during the crazy, stressful days of harvest.
Garrit Stoltz of Stoltz Winery, Hood River, Oregon on the other hand has a deep distrust of pumping wine. They instead fork the grapes by hand into destemmer, and then feed down into what was the cadaver laboratory (their winery facility was once a funeral home) for fermenting and pressing. Once quiet it is moved with gravity and gas displacement into the mortuary’s old cold chamber. The wine is bottled by hand back in the lab without ever seeing the inside of a pump.
Stuart Spoto of Spoto Wines, Oakville has a simple ritual wherein he sits down with his cup of coffee, pets the winery dog and let him lick his face for luck. This is how he starts his days during crush and to top it all the winery dog’s name is Napa.
Brooke Langelius of St. Supéry Estate Vineyards & Winery in Napa dreads the Full moons because as per him they bring nothing bad luck for bottling. The equipment on their bottling line breaks down with no explanation what seems like every single time they bottle on a full moon.
Laura Barrett of Casey Flat Ranch in Capay Valley follows just one superstition – she never, never washes her car during harvest. With multiple trips, up and down Casey Flat Ranch the dust gets into every nook and cranny of her car, inside and out but she believes that It's against all winemaker rules to wash until the last grapes are in. If you hit the carwash, it will rain.




Monday, November 27, 2017

Earthquake wine. No, seriously.

For the nerd-loving science type, there's an interesting shift in the Milky Way that is occurring today, right this second, that may impact what type of wine you drink 10 years from now.

What is it?

For the past sequential few years, the earth's rotational speed has slowed.  According to scientists who analyzed every earthquake above 7.0 magnitude since 1900, when our planet decelerates rotational spin, it leads to an increased number of earthquakes.

How, you ask, does this cyclical link translate for impacting the wine industry?

Stick with me.

In 2014, I was woken in my apartment in SF by the sound of my running metals slamming together on the wall above my head.  I was in the middle of an earthquake, so like any Californian, I waited for it to stop, and then went back to sleep.  Just few miles North of my apartment was the epicenter for a 6.0 earthquake, in Napa.  It resulted in $1 billion of damage, and the region is still recovering today.

The San Andreas Fault, which many speculate will create an earthquake known as "The Big One," runs directly through the Bay Area.  Some speculate that the West Napa Fault, the cause of the 2014 South Napa earthquake, is attached to the San Andreas fault line.

If scientists are correct about increased earthquakes resulting from slowed rotational spin, which we are experiencing today, then chances are the wine we will be drinking years from now will either be from a different region due to earthquake damage, or it will be a well-shaken varietal.